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Discussion Starter #21
If I were in your shoes I’d try @Dust Devil recommendation. I have lurked on the website a lot and he always gives sound advice. Checking valves costs no money and is a great place to start. If you find that’s not the problem maybe inquire what a dealership would charge to check your butterfly.
That was my plan. My feeler gauges arrived today so hopefully get to check it this weekend!
 

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Here is the link to the post I found. Unfortunately it’s from 07 and idk how I would find the guy and it sounds like an issue from the dealer but I do think i have a similar issue
Quote from the same posting...(
kawi_kx
06-08-2007, 06:30 AM
I got the quad fixed last night! The butterfly was not properly adjusted from the factory. It was completely shut unless the throttle was open, therefore there was no fuel air mixture unless you opened the choke/idle knob or opened the throttle. I adjusted the butterfly valve to Kawasaki specs and it works beautifully now.
^^_^^__^_

The only things is I can't find any spec's on the butterfly adjustment...If you want to try yourself...I recommend you adjust, 1/8 of a turn each time until you think it's fix...!!

With that said...The screw on the bottom of the throttle body is the butterfly adjustment...see picture below

You'll need to install & reset the TPS to spec's 0.58~0.62 DCV each time you adjust the butterfly every 1/8th turn...

Here's a thread from Duster about the throttle body... It's just a throttle body, don't be skeerd
Quotes from this thread...
Duster
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12,056 Posts
Discussion Starter • #9 Jan 14, 2011
OK here is looking into the back / air filter side of the throttle body.

Throttle butterfly is closed... so how does it breathe to idle...

The answer is through a straw... lol...

As you can see in the 1:00 position there is a port...
I call this the idle air bypass venturi.

As air bypasses the throttle butterfly through this venturi.



The screw with the yellow line is the butterfly adjustment..the yellow line is the factory setting. just in case you have to return it too factory spec's..

Good Luck...!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I currently have my whole intake off. I completely removed it and have been cleaning all the dirt and scum off it Since I was waiting on some tools to come in. I tried looking into the throttle body while moving the choke in and out to see if I can see anything but unfortunately I can’t see anything past the throttle valve. Is there anything I could look for while I have the intake off? If not I will be putting the intake all back together tomorrow and will move on to check my tps voltage and valve clearances
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Quote from the same posting...(
kawi_kx
06-08-2007, 06:30 AM
I got the quad fixed last night! The butterfly was not properly adjusted from the factory. It was completely shut unless the throttle was open, therefore there was no fuel air mixture unless you opened the choke/idle knob or opened the throttle. I adjusted the butterfly valve to Kawasaki specs and it works beautifully now.
^^^^_^_

The only things is I can't find any spec's on the butterfly adjustment...If you want to try yourself...I recommend you adjust, 1/8 of a turn each time until you think it's fix...!!

With that said...The screw on the bottom of the throttle body is the butterfly adjustment...see picture below

You'll need to install & reset the TPS to spec's 0.58~0.62 DCV each time you adjust the butterfly every 1/8th turn...

Here's a thread from Duster about the throttle body... It's just a throttle body, don't be skeerd
Quotes from this thread...
Duster
Registered

Joined Mar 5, 2009
12,056 Posts
Discussion Starter • #9 Jan 14, 2011
OK here is looking into the back / air filter side of the throttle body.

Throttle butterfly is closed... so how does it breathe to idle...

The answer is through a straw... lol...

As you can see in the 1:00 position there is a port...
I call this the idle air bypass venturi.

As air bypasses the throttle butterfly through this venturi.



The screw with the yellow line is the butterfly adjustment..the yellow line is the factory setting. just in case you have to return it too factory spec's..

Good Luck...!!!
I’m going to check my valves and tos voltage before I attempt this. You might be right as far as this not being my issue considering it seems like it’s a very rare issue that not too many people have
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Quote from the same posting...(
kawi_kx
06-08-2007, 06:30 AM
I got the quad fixed last night! The butterfly was not properly adjusted from the factory. It was completely shut unless the throttle was open, therefore there was no fuel air mixture unless you opened the choke/idle knob or opened the throttle. I adjusted the butterfly valve to Kawasaki specs and it works beautifully now.
^^^^_^_

The only things is I can't find any spec's on the butterfly adjustment...If you want to try yourself...I recommend you adjust, 1/8 of a turn each time until you think it's fix...!!

With that said...The screw on the bottom of the throttle body is the butterfly adjustment...see picture below

You'll need to install & reset the TPS to spec's 0.58~0.62 DCV each time you adjust the butterfly every 1/8th turn...

Here's a thread from Duster about the throttle body... It's just a throttle body, don't be skeerd
Quotes from this thread...
Duster
Registered

Joined Mar 5, 2009
12,056 Posts
Discussion Starter • #9 Jan 14, 2011
OK here is looking into the back / air filter side of the throttle body.

Throttle butterfly is closed... so how does it breathe to idle...

The answer is through a straw... lol...

As you can see in the 1:00 position there is a port...
I call this the idle air bypass venturi.

As air bypasses the throttle butterfly through this venturi.



The screw with the yellow line is the butterfly adjustment..the yellow line is the factory setting. just in case you have to return it too factory spec's..

Good Luck...!!!
Just checked the tps voltage
Idle- 0.6vdc
WOT- 3.9vdc
According to you and the manual that is perfect. With that being said I will be checking valves this weekend hopefully
 

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Just checked the tps voltage
Idle- 0.6vdc
WOT- 3.9vdc
According to you and the manual that is perfect. With that being said I will be checking valves this weekend hopefully
Your 0.6 ? what's the next number after the 6.????
Idle range is 0.58~0.62 VDC ...If you are 0.63DCV you'll cause an DFI error for being out of range...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Your 0.6 ? what's the next number after the 6.????
Idle range is 0.58~0.62 VDC ...If you are 0.63DCV you'll cause an DFI error for being out of range...
I believe it was 0.60dcv exact but can check again
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Your 0.6 ? what's the next number after the 6.????
Idle range is 0.58~0.62 VDC ...If you are 0.63DCV you'll cause an DFI error for being out of range...
I can confirm it’s 0.602 vdc
 

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Discussion Starter #29
28244
 

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Which numbers is the measurement...???

If the two valves closes to the chain marked red in picture.. exhaust @ 0.17mm & the intake @ 0.10mm need to be shimmed out..??
Metal expands when heated so the clearance closes causing the two valves specified to be out of specs & prevents the valve to completely close...Thus compression loss causing your symptoms...!!..
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The numbers inside the circles representing each valve is the measured number. The numbers on the outside that you highlighted are the range spec numbers. So it looks like top right exhaust valve is at the end of the range being almost too big of a gap and then the bottom left intake is just a little too tight
 

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The numbers inside the circles representing each valve is the measured number. The numbers on the outside that you highlighted are the range spec numbers. So it looks like top right exhaust valve is at the end of the range being almost too big of a gap and then the bottom left intake is just a little too tight
Note: Valves need to be shimmed to the max of the range NOT the minimum of the range specs...

Recommended for the Intake is 0.14mm & exhaust is 0.21mm

The intake valve that's 008~009 in the circle is your problem (circled in red in picture)...That valve doesn't close completely...need to be shimmed to 0.14mm..
The other valve circled in yellow should be shimmed too before it starts causing a problem...

The exhaust valves are great don't touch them 0.20~0.23 is ideal for them...
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited by Moderator)
Note: Valves need to be shimmed to the max of the range NOT the minimum of the range specs...

Recommended for the Intake is 0.14mm & exhaust is 0.21mm

The intake valve that's 008~009 in the circle is your problem (circled in red in picture)...That valve doesn't close completely...need to be shimmed to 0.14mm..
The other valve circled in yellow should be shimmed too before it starts causing a problem...

The exhaust valves are great don't touch them 0.20~0.23 is ideal for them...
Man I sure hope your right. Is this something I should pay to have done? I mean I’m pretty mechanically inclined and work on all my own stuff for the most part but I’ve never adjusted valves on anything.
 

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Man I sure hope your right. Is this something I should pay to have done? I mean I’m pretty mechanically inclined and work on all my own stuff for the most part but I’ve never adjusted valves on anything.
Your looking at $200~$300 for a shop to do it...

You'll need a 9.48 shim kit.. like this.. Hot Cams Shim Kit for Kawasaki KFX 450 R 2008-2014 | eBay

(service manual)
Valve Clearance: between cam and valve lifter
Standard:
Exhaust 0.17 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0067 ∼ 0.0087 in.)
Inlet 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.)
If the valve clearance is not within the specified range,
adjust it.

You might want to adjust the exhaust @ 0.23 to 0.21mm with the motor apart

Here's a video to help you...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Your looking at $200~$300 for a shop to do it...

You'll need a 9.48 shim kit.. like this.. Hot Cams Shim Kit for Kawasaki KFX 450 R 2008-2014 | eBay

(service manual)
Valve Clearance: between cam and valve lifter
Standard:
Exhaust 0.17 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0067 ∼ 0.0087 in.)
Inlet 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.)
If the valve clearance is not within the specified range,
adjust it.

You might want to adjust the exhaust @ 0.23 to 0.21mm with the motor apart

Here's a video to help you...
I think I’ll do it myself I should be able to handle it
 

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I think I’ll do it myself I should be able to handle it
Make sure your timing marks are @ TDC or top dead center & put it in 1st gear to prevent it from moving....Then proceed to adjust valves...!

Warning...Make sure the two copper oil pipes don't fall down the cam chain...hard to fish out...!!!

see picture
 

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