Did you properly gap the piston rings before you installed the piston...???I have a 100 gal compressor and it didnt kick on. I dont understand why they would make the gauge not even make it on the scale... I mean it never even budged off of the pin once it pegged. I had it on for 30 sec at 100psi. So I'm guessing its holding compression.
I have a 2 normal compression gauges. One of them holds the pressure inside until the cranking is over and can be released afterwards and it only gives me about 30psi. But I have one that bounces every stroke and it gives me about 72psi wot cold. That's with the exhaust cam shimmed at .14mm. With it shimmed at .20mm it was about 60psi.
Keep in mind that the last time it ran I rode it one day and the next it wouldnt start. I had low compression and couldn't figure it out so I replaced everything new except the head and cams. I had it decked and a valve job with new oem valves and springs. Now I am still having issues with compression. I'm around 13.5:1 and shimmed properly I'm only around 60psi.
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Also, The leak down test is two stages...
First stage is to determine the % of air leaking indicated on the red.yellow & green gauge...The video shows the procedure starting at 2:00...
Second stage is to turn up the PSI on the regulator to better hear where the greater air loss is coming from...why you need 100 + psi air compressor to better hear the air leaking...!!
intake, exhaust valves=leaking out the throttle body or exhaust pipe. head gasket= air bubbling in the radiator...piston rings=air leaking out the motor vent...
(Note) the motor vent hose in connected to the intake tube...might give a false reading if left connected...!!!
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