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Discussion Starter #1
i believe mine has finally met the ghost and is stripped. what is the most common way to fix it with the best results and what size is it.
 

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I don't know but I hate it for you. I'm watching this post in case it ever happens to me.
 

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It's a 12 m 1.5 pitch thread what you need I to buy a 14 m same pitch tap and fix it I'm on it this weekend
 

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Happend to me went up to a "14mm1.5 found a nice bolt at auto zone real short just like the stocker so far so good but I'd have to say the design is awful it should be like 1 inch in depth more treads less worries!and heli coils won't work as the oil drains from the sides and not straight down so by inserting a heli coil you'd block the oil from draining!
 

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Oh and as far as retappingthe hole I started it went in just about till it bottomed out then cut my tap and reinserted to get extra depth as the beginning of the tap is tapered and once you get in about 1/2 inch it stops!
 

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Use a 1/4" ratchet to tighten your bolts with....To prevent stripping the threads....

It's fine to go to a larger size, as long as you don't strip it again...
If you go with tapping to a M14X1.50 size...Here's a M14X1.50 magnetic drain plug to use...EVO X Engine Performance - Titek Magnetic Drain Plug M14 x 1.50 Blue

If you helicoil your replacing the aluminum threads with steel threads...

which makes it harder to strip it in the future....

I would recommend the helicoil kit...!!!!

 

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Just wondering, has anyone that uses a torque wrench ever stripped the threads?
Yes, I stripped the small drain bolt with a MACO torque wrench. if you race a lot and change the oil a lot it will happen. It is just thin aluminum and I would not use a regular heli coil because it's too tall and want let the oil drain out all the way.
 

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I have in a Toyota cylinder head while tightening down a couple of camshaft hold downs. Ended up going with helicoils. Was just about to the torque spec when it just pulled the threads out for whatever reason.
 

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BTW I don't have a good fix for this so I would like to keep this thread going and let's hear some ideas!
 

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Just wondering, has anyone that uses a torque wrench ever stripped the threads?
I usually use torque wrenches while dealing with aluminum, but stripped the small drain bolt anyway.
 

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I dont tighten my oil bolt at all in any of my vehicles, as soon as I can not tighten by hand I give one 1/4 turn on the bolt and thats it, have never lost a drain plug and it does not strip due to not being over tight. Just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i believe this is the repair method i am going to use its made just for drain pan repairs. timesert.com is the web site.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the design of the drain in the bottom of the case is the worst idea ever. stand your quad on its grab bar and take out your drain bolt. look at the tiny amount of metal that is threaded for the bolt to thread on. it has to be less than 1/8 of a inch. it is no wonder that the holes strip out the way they do. there are ports 3/4 of the way around the surface area that the bolt is expected to thread into.
 

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I agree, stupid way to shape the case and drain area.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well the rubber plug idea didnt work the oil made the rubber very soft and was going to tear away from the brass threaded rod running through it. i went with my first idea, steel threaded insert and it is good as new and will never have to deal with this problem again.
 

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Maybe I missed it, but what size is the little drain bolt? Would it be worth it to go get a new bolt that wont strip the head so easilly and just be proactive about it?
 
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