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Thanks DD. I noticed that the actual drain plug was stuck to the bigger plug too. It should have screwed off that the copper gasket. Why do you think that bigger bolt was install? You think maybe the previous owner put a hole in the oil pan while riding it, and didn't want to spend the money on a new pan - so then he just made a bigger hole, threaded it, and put that in? That's the only thing I can think of.

I will check the water temp sensor next.
Many have stripped there 2 drain plugs m12 & m6 due to the aluminum cases & threading to a larger size is the easiest fix.

Have you been able to check your valve lash...???
Valve Clearance: between cam and valve lifter
Standard:
Exhaust 0.17 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0067 ∼ 0.0087 in.) for best performance around 0..21mm...
Inlet 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.) for best performance around 0.14mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Not yet. Crazy busy lately. I'll try to get on it and follow up.

(I found that a wire that plugs into the air box sensor was melted pretty bad because of being exposed to the exhaust pipe.)
 

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That drain plug is exactly what Dust Devil said...he stripped out the original threads and put that plug in. Nothing wrong with using it but you have to put a wrench on the big part and un-thread the smaller plug to drain the oil.

I'm guessing it may be the water pump seal..
 

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Not yet. Crazy busy lately. I'll try to get on it and follow up.

(I found that a wire that plugs into the air box sensor was melted pretty bad because of being exposed to the exhaust pipe.)
That's maybe your problem...!!! That's the air temp sensor is why it will only runs with the Idle knob pulled & stalls when pushed in ...See picture
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Ok cool. I'm gonna check valve clearance just to be safe.
Well, just finished checking the valve clearance. Both front exhaust valves are snug at .229
Rear left inlet was at .33! Big space, I probably could have fit the next size, but that was the last gauge 🤣 The rear right was soooo tight, I couldn't even fit the .038 in there, because THAT was the thinnest I had! It was almost like it was completely shut. How does something like this happen??
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Ok cool. I'm gonna check valve clearance just to be safe.
Well, just finished checking the valve clearance. Both front exhaust valves are snug at .229
Rear left inlet was at .33! Big space, I probably could have fit the next size, but that was the last gauge 🤣 The rear right was soooo tight, I couldn't even fit the .038 in there, because THAT was the thinnest I had! It was almost like it was completely shut. How does something like this happen?? View attachment 29434
My guess it was done wrong or never adjusted before you got it....

You'll need to adjust them out..!
Exhaust 0.17 ∼ 0.22 mm (0.0067 ∼ 0.0087 in.) for best performance around 0.008
Inlet 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.) for best performance around 0.005

It's easier to use metric when shimming. the shims are metric in 0.5 increments..
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks DD. Will order that now, along with a new timing chain just in case. Do you think it's necessary to check the valve seating, while I have it apart?

Ordered a new throttle cable and valve cover gasket too.
 

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