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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been starting in neutral and the bike fires real fast but I have noticed that if I stall in the woods or try to start in gear off the line, with the clutch in, that it really struggles to start. It will crank and crank, sometimes I just give up and shift to neutral to start once I stall. What could help me? Stock bike, new plug every few weeks and oil changed after every race. It’s a 2014 with very low hours. I was thinking worn clutch or weak coil. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I installed a Accel coil and plug wire today and it starts a lot better in gear, but I feel like it could still be better. I have a intake and fuel controller on the way so maybe that will help it, idk. Any ideas would be great. It still takes about 2 cranks to fire sometimes, if that makes sense.
 

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Add a 240amp lithium battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Add a 240amp lithium battery.
Thanks for the reply. Would that just make my starter crank harder and faster? If I could start in second like the guys that battle for the holeshot here I could really step up my game and miss getting stuck in traffic.
 

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Yes.

The lithium batteries crank so strong.

Also adjust your TPS to .62

This also makes starting easier!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, my battery is the factory 100cca. I can get a 210amp shorai battery from summit racing for around $140(I get my parts next day because I’m in Ohio) and I’m ordering new rears from them anyways, think that’ll do? I didn’t see 240 amp on MotoSport either. Really hoping to fire this thing at the touch of a button.
 

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Factory is only 70cca!

It’s rather pathetic.

The shorai 210 will be great. I think antigravity makes the 240cca one

If the battery isn’t quite enough set the tps to .62
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was just going off of the model number. I tried to adjust the TPS today but I can’t get my fluke into the plug, like I figured would happen. I got to order the adapter now unless I missed a secret. Going to get the battery also. When I measure the volts on my battery, it sits at 12.8 but when I start it the voltage drops to 9.2 volts. The bigger battery should keep the voltage up and thus making it crank harder and faster I assume.
 

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Yea it will definitely keep the starter spinning quick.

Order the adapter for 20$

It’s well worth it.

Also, turn idle up a few clicks.

Should have a kfx that starts in an instant with all those things
 

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I am currently running 2 batteries on my kfx. They are ran in parallel which gives me around 225cca. It absolutely helps!!. When mine was all stock the battery was down to 12.7v and dropped to like 9 or 10 v when it tried to start. It was really hard to start like that. One day i had a second kfx battery present and hooked jumper cables to it (positive to positive and negative to negative) and it started right up. So i fabricated a battery box and have had 2 batteries ever since. It really helps. I also have a procom regulator and it boosted my charging system from a consistent 13.7v to 14.5v. It really helps as well but it was like 90 bucks. Well worth it. Ive ran into 4 other things that make it hard to start so if this doesnt work maybe i can suggest another area depending on exactly what it does.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got my intake and fuel controller installed today, seems to have made starting worse. It’s just a Wiseco controller at base settings with a fuel customs intake. I ordered the TPS adapter 2 days ago but it won’t be here till Tuesday, so I’ll have to wait on that. Going to get the battery also so I should be set, hopefully. My next race is in 2 weeks so I got a little bit of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I found a old post that had you, Blue, saying you ran a Wiseco fuel controller and your settings were 4.5,4.5,3. Is it still the same, and would that be ok with the factory exhaust? Also, should I go with a colder plug with my Accel coil, intake and fuel controller? Ive been trying to find one locally but looks like I’d have to order it if I go cooler.
 

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Its hard for me to condense what i say and have it thoroughly understood. Please ask!
Ok i am running a power commander 5 with autotune and a procom ecu....which there is a great deal of scrutiny on. I have an accel coil, a procom regulator, fci intake, k&n filter, full dasa exhaust, and kfx cams which are the equivalent of stage 2 hot cam except like 10 thousandths off, and an iridium plug. I started at stock though. I had many issues along the way and the volt meter is the best friend youve got. An osiliscope would be the best but i dont have one. So to keep it simple the rings on your piston are meant to hold air above your piston in the combustion chamber. Gasoline is a fluid and is more dense than air, so when an abundance of gasoline goes into your cylinder when cranking and it doesnt ignite, then it increases your compression.....making it turn over harder. I have this issue daily with the procom ecu. Most people cant figure it out and assume that a patch is required from dynojet but thats not true. I use a 20% fuel cut when my bike is cold and it turns over easy and starts right up. I can manipulate my fuel with the pcv easily and its easy to show that if i use the stock level fuel from the procom ecu and try to start it up cold that it wont turn over almost at all. If i cut the fuel by 20% in the 0 tps column it turns over fast and fires up quick. Thats because i am not drowning my plug out in fuel and when it doesnt ignite then the liquid fillls any ring gap or wear and that increases my compression ratio very briefly, making it harder to crank for the starter. What im trying to say is when your cranking with too much fuel then it cranks really hard! You are so Limited by the stock setup that its hard for me to give advice because i am new to this platform. Ive had one for 6 months or so. I tune turbocharged cars. Stroker said adjust the tps to .62 and that helps because your boundaries are .58 to .62 and that way your ecu thinks the throttle is at zero movement no matter where it is in the acceptable range (.58 to . 62) and it gives the injector the command to give the least amount of fuel that it can for 0% throttle. Say if your ecu was calibrated to think that the signal sent to it was .58 and it was calibrated at 0%, then your tps was a little warn or the cable wore a little and it wasnt returning to the actual 0% which would be .58 and now since it doesnt go all the way back there everytime and now its sending the ecu a .62 signal, then now your ecu thinks that it is supposed to give a little more gas than it should, your bike now gets a little more gas than it should, and this raises your compression level and makes it harder to turn over using the same voltage to the starter that youve always had. So .62 is the safest way if it turns over hard.....im sorry to have written so much...like i said its really hard to make it short and have anyone understand. Other things that make it hard to start are bad compression, bad valve tolerances, bad starter sylinoid connector, starter clutch, bad starter bendix, low voltage from battery or charging system, too much fuel while cranking, low ignition spark, bad spring on your exhaust cam. Im sure there's more but that's off of the top of my head. I hope it helps.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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I forgot to say about the plug....im down 2 levels to compensate for the accel coil and the raise in consistent voltage. My problem is that i upgraded all around the engine in diameter size but the engine is almost stock except the cams. That means i lost the air velocity for size and that velocity is the most important part...not the size of the intake and exhaust. The idea is to never restrict the breathing ability of the engine but not to be too much bigger. A flow bench is optimal but its a fourwheeler so we guess. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Blayz, they sell a single Lithium battery that has the same output of 2 normal batteries.

You don’t need a colder plug with the accel. Stock plug is fine. Prityboy found that out years ago.

Run 4, 4, 2.5 with your mods right now.

It’s to lean on the default wiseco settings.

Turn the idle up a few clicks as well.
 

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I didnt know about the lithium ion battery until i read that yesterday. Would have saved me some time. I have the pod-300 with the pcv so i can watch my afr in real time. Along with temp and rpm. I have the tusk radiator cap with the thermometer on top and a second wideband afr gauge just to make sure i get the same reading with both. That ensures that everything is functioning properly with no false readings because adjustments based on false readings could be expensive. Lol
Anyhow i havent got my map sensor incorporated with my tune yet and when i ride easy, it was getting to where the fan ran constantly from high temps. And i said map sensor because when im at low rpm and about 25mph in 5th gear and i increase the load on the engine it started firing on both strokes....it sounds like a twin cylinder Harley. The ecu fires every stroke anyway but theres normally no gas left to burn on the exhaust stroke, or that is at 14.7 afr where all gas and all air are burned completely, but this is around 12.5 afr so there is a little fuel left and if you have a strong enough ignition system then it may occasionally ignite the little bit thats left. So i dropped one number plug and rode for a week and it helped, and i dropped one more number and it stopped doing it and my temp stays in check better with no loss in power. The iridium plugs are what i use. It really helps being able to watch everything in real time because if i didn't have raw data to read then i wouldnt be able to backup anything im saying.

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Procom meters and tunes different too.

Wiseco is very easy to adjust and it adjusts the fuel vs tps in its logic

Where as procom has to have the maps also adjusted fuel vs tps
 

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About 3 months ago i bought a brand new entire wire harness and a new starter sylinoid (the main 30amp fuse block) and it was easy to start again. But over about 2 weeks it got harder to start and one day it died and wouldnt start. So i figured out that it was the main connection on the starter fuse block again. But its brand new. So i wiggled it and it started right up. Well it didn't take very long until it was starting hard again and finally i had to wiggle it a lil to get it to start at all. Turns out the last 3" of the ground wire was broken inside of a brand new harness.$300. I spliced in the last 6" of my old harness and now its fine again. But it was making it turn over hard....i could stick it in neutral and hit the start button and let it turn over a couple of times and then wiggle the wire and it would turn over much faster and start easier, all without letting up on the starter button. Just something to check and easy to do if u cant figure out why its turning over hard.

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Discussion Starter #20
I’m a carburetor guy. I build, run and tune my nitrous Cutlass, engine and chassis work. Full cage, big tire car. My kfx was bone stock, hardly ridden, bought from a older guy in the suburbs that never rode it. I got all the factory paperwork and everything. All I did was Accel coil, fuel customs intake and weisco programmer. My battery definitely drops low while I crank it so the new battery is coming. I’m also going to adjust the tps Tuesday when the adapter gets here. I raced RM125’s for the longest so this is officially my first go at messing with fuel injection. I got hurt and decided to make the switch to quads. Thanks for all the help.
 
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