The rear brake line thread - Kawasaki KFX450 Forum :: KFX450HQ.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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The rear brake line thread

The search function isn't so hot it seems. I know this topic has been discussed before, but I have totally forgotten most of it by now.

At the moment my quad sits without rear brake components. I have most of what I need to wo this pig up, including a stock rear brake line.

But we all know what a PITA bleeding rear brakes is and all my parts got nothing but air inside, so if I am gonna change rear brake lines, now is the time. So this brings up questions.

1 - Should I actually upgrade the rear to a braided line? I know it was a good move in front for sure. But that's a finger or two on a front brake lever vs a foot and boot on a rear brake pedal. I want it to work well and be firm, but I wonder if this is needed or a wanted improvement on the line. Or if I am not going to like it because it makes them touchy or quick to just lock up?

2 - has anyone figured out a good fitting aftermarket line? I remember reading and have also seen what I would consider complaints about fitment. I've seen some with more than ideal lengths as well as bends that are less than ideal at the caliper and at the master.

Discuss.... thanks!

(The plan is I'm going to freshen up rear brakes and I'm going to upgrade to a TRX caliper and pads)

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 02:59 AM
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I perfer the stock rear lines on most modern quads, they just fit correctly and all the clips are already design for the thicker stock line.

I now learnt recently that the KFX has the same rear caliper as many other quads just the slider mount is different, like the older YFZ's and Raptors, Banshee, all the same, and even old school LT500r from the 80's

For bleeding, I just pump the peddle by hand very fast and just to get this going and then a few more slow and never had a problem without useing a speedy bleeder (I have one just never use it)

Unless you running a differnt swing arm on some machines you gotta use a SS line for other reasons, like on a banshee with its crazy long factor line that wont work on round housing swing arms.

As for performance ss might be a bit sharper, but like you said thats more of a feel at the finger tip than your hoof.

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2014 KFX-450r +3 MGC arms Gen 3 Fox shocks, FCI, 15t, +4 axle, piped
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2004 TRX-450R, long travel, cr250r engine hybrid
1996 Banshee 421 serval, Laegers arms + swinger
1988 Quadzilla resto-mod, Piped, Air eliminator, all sblt
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 10:42 AM
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If you need bleeding help let me know, its a PITA for sure. That was the issue with both the front and rear brakes. Just make sure the pistons and rubber seals are still good..
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 07:28 PM
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Duster,

I was in a similar boat as you with the rear brake line. When I did all my suspension I did the front brake lines only. I went through 3 different sets of Streamlines and not a single set were the same nor did they fit properly. I ended up getting Galfer lines up front and have been very happy with them.

After blowing out my rear brake line I went with a Galfer rear brake line, the fit was spot on and the feel is great. After finally getting the rear brakes bled, a royal pain I might add without a vacuum bleeder, the pedal feel is nice and firm but certainly not overkill. I guess the best way to describe it is that it's a much more confident feel in the rear brake. I haven't noticed any tendency for easy lock-up or a touchy feeling to it. I will say this, it was a little adjustment after being use to the stock line and the squishy feel of it. It should be noted, some of my squishy feel could have been due to the brake line just being crappy and on the verge of blowing out, which it eventually did.

When I did my rear brake line I rebuilt the caliper and went through the master cylinder as well. Starting with a basically dry system and everything connected I filled the resi and pumped it a number of times slowly, keeping an eye on the level in the resi. I did this just to get some fluid back into the components of the master cylinder. After that I hooked up the vacuum bleeder and bled my brakes like normal. I found out it is VITAL to keep an eye on the resi, I sucked some air in and I essentially had to start over at the resi, my dumb mistake there! Once I got the rear brake bled properly and no air at the caliper I just did a bedding in on the rear brake pads and have been really happy with the brakes since.

That's what I went through and what I've noticed with my set-up. I'm in no means at the level of riding skill as you are so you may or may not like it. Wanted to provide my opinion and the things I noticed though when I did mine. Hope it helps Duster.

Tony

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:07 PM
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I purchased a stock length streamline rear brake line and it fit just fine. I noticed that it was slightly longer than stock but I was able to have the factory brake line clamps hold well by adding shrink tuning to the brackets. I hope that I never have to bleed that line again as I went through 2 sets of pads in three rides to get it dialed in. I had it lock up on me twice due to too much fluid in the master cylinder (expand after getting hot). I used a vacuum bleeder which helped but definitely the most tedious brake job that I've ever performed. Be prepared to put your patience to the test. I recommend having a second person to help and tap the line often to remove air bubbles during the process. Good luck


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:28 PM
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I just had an idea for bleeding the rear brakes. Maybe this has been tried, I'm not sure. What about stringing the rear caliper up to the subframe and using a piece of metal or plywood between the pads to simulate the rotor. This would put the caliper at the high point and help air bubbles rise up and out of the line. You would still need to have the bleeder on the caliper as the high point, but what do you guys think for a way to bleed the rear brakes???

Just a random thought as I read through this thread again.

Tony

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:38 PM
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This and other threads is making me never want to have to bleed my brakes...EVER.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 11:39 PM
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I bought the Streamline and Tusk, I think, and both are to long for my preference looks ugly. I didn't have a problem bleeding mine just takes time like another quad.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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OK cool, you'll have to show me that Galfer rear line. I run their 3 piece set up front and like it.

As far as bleeding, I have never had my whole system in the rear apart and dry. I just remember the rear being rough and also the front wasn't great fun when I did the lines. But all in all I have never had an issue until that race I crashed. I don't know what happened really, but I rolled off the trailer that day and had pretty much no rear brakes. So I had planned on a conversion and had no issues tearing it apart to loan some parts to keep a fellow racer rolling.

Now that I will be putting it back together soon, I just really want to only do it once since it's not fun. When I do pads I generally redneck it on the bleeding. I run a long hose off the bleeder and put a catch bottle up high somewhere. Then I pump them until I essentially do a fluid change. By the time I see clean fluid in the hose everything is all worked out.

I think this time I may redneck it even more out in some gravel with an oil drain pan. I think I will try filling from the bleeder pushing out the pistons without pads, then pushing the line full up to the master. I am not sure how this master works, but I have seen some that I could push into the master. Gonna try it anyways.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 03:34 AM
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When I do the fronts I bleed the air out as much as I can. Then I zip tie the brake lever toward the handlebar with the cap off the reservoir. I read that tip some where years ago. The air escapes out the reservoir it seems. The next day the brakes feel firm after cutting the zip tie off. Could also try that with the rear brake by placing something heavy on the pedal.
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