TPS setting - Page 13 - Kawasaki KFX450 Forum :: KFX450HQ.com
Engine/EFI/Drivetrain Discuss engine, fuel injection, air intake, and drivetrain modifications here.

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post #121 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 01:20 PM
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Im still waiting for the email from the guy at dynojet...if it ever comes ill post it!
I have my doubts

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post #122 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blayzin212 View Post
No dynojet did not send me anything. I emailed back and forth for days and the guy i was emailing with said "oh u want to just scale the ppr by .5?" And i said yes and he said "no problem i can do that for you" then there was never any response so i called dynojet and talked to a guy in tech that understood what i was saying but didnt know. So he went and got the head of r&d on the phone with me and he explained that the pcv reads ppr by resistors built onto the board and that its hardware, not software.

I i got my bike to run with the pcv and the procom. Weirdest thing though...even with the procom by itself it seems like it works great once, and then if i turn the bike off and on again it wants to flood out...then I'll turn it on and off again and it will be fine....not just back and forth but randomly.


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Flooding is usually the water temp sensor going bad...!

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post #123 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 11:01 AM
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I have 2 brand new water temp sensors and i get the same thing with both. I managed to find another stock ecu that works and it doesnt ever flood with it hooked up. So i switch the procom to the stock setting which should be the same as the fuel setting on the stock ecu and try it again but it runs great once and i shut it off and start it again and it floods. Weird!
Im thinking that its not scaled closely enough to the temp sensor.

The pcv with autotune is amazing! I can start a map from stock setting with all zeros and dial it in to be around 13.0 afr in no time. (A couple hours) but the tuning process often takes longer than that. Starting with a map thats close to the bikes current mods will speed it up though.

I just wish it would work better with the procom because it has some safety features that the stock ecu doesn't and now i have to add wires and scale voltages to get the same effect with the pcv. Plus i hate that dang vehicle down sensor!

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post #124 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 07:56 PM
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I spent 8 hrs today and 4 hrs yesterday but i finally got the pcv to work with the procom! I only got to ride for about an hour once i got it dialed in becauseit started to rain. Since i have a good stock ecu and the procom ive been able to test back to back after changes.

The autotune works really well with the stock ecu down at an idle but not with the procom. By the way i have the procom set to a beginner on a stock bike (#1). However its not the same as a stock ecu settings. Stock ecu little to no fuel is removed at idle and the procom requires a 15 to 20 % reduction. Also the autotune doesnt work at idle and a few cells arouund it. I had to set the fuel myself on the 0% tps column. So there are a few things i need to worythis much easier. The best thing ive found so far is that i had to add ignition timing in the lower load cells to make it work and holy crap! The bottom end torque is enough to peel your face back....i tried with the stock ecu and it didnt like it. There are other differences and the biggest thing i see so far is the ignition settings are not the same! And they are both waste spark (fires on every revolution). And i know this because i pulled the plug and turned it over while watching the spark frequency and then swapped the ecu and did it again. Both fire ever revolution as far as i can tell. If you know something i dont please chime in. But i will update u when i get it finished and ill post a map for ppl with the same mods that i have.

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post #125 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 12:27 AM
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Are you advancing ignition timing?

The procom maps 7-9 have 3-4 degrees advance and some really like it

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post #126 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 12:13 PM
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Yeah im advancing the ignition 6 degrees on 0% throttle to 2250 rpms, and 4 degrees on 2% and upto 100% on tps but only down to 2250 rpms. Most cells there will never be used.

So i have the pcv software up and monitoring it while i am reading voltage from the battery and resistance from engine coolant temp sensor while measuring temperature at the coolant cap lid (tusk lid with a thermometer on top) and measuring the temp around the engine and exhaust gas temp with a laser thermometer. I have a second wideband and afr gauge setup on a seperate power supply so they cant effect the bikes power supply or one another and the widebands are in close proximity.

What i can say from upmost certainty as i did this test for hours yesterday is that the procom has issues with voltage. Idleing it seems as if the pcv and procom cant be used together because the voltage to the ecu changes when the fan comes on and then the ecu spits less fuel and that makes the afr go from 12.5 to around 15afr untill the fan stops and it doesnt want to run very well at all! ( an injector on a car operates at exact battery voltage as well and will drop fuel output the same way). So while riding the bike versus idleing the voltage will be high and much more constant so thats why i was able to ride with the procom and pcv together. I changed the fan relay 3 times to be sure it was using the correct amperage. Now i hooked the temp sensor into my pcv and scaled out the voltage so that it would add 10% fuel at the voltage that the fan kicks on and go back to normal when it gets the voltage that the fan kicks off again to keep the afr around 13 all the time. Well the damn voltage just keeps changing from the coolant temp sensor based on the current voltage at the battery at the given time, and thats changing because the fan goes on and off. With the pcv, autotune, and the procom running at the same time the voltage from the battery at an idles slowly keeps dropping and thats the main reason it isnt working at an idle....the bikes not making enough juice to sustain everything at once.....yesterday i bought a procom regulator and it makes a little more juice while giving a good deal extra juice once the battery is fully charged it delivers better power to the bike by keeping the magnetic field open at the crank sensor. (This should ensure a consistent ride but still not enough to sustain a long term idle). This was all done with the procom and today im going to repeat the process with the stock ecu so i can compare. And the main reason i bought the pod-300 for the pcv so i can data log and that will alow me to determine the exact problem/ fix.

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post #127 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 01:58 PM
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And my battery is brand new...i have 2 brand new ones....they stay at 13.28v when the bikes off. Yesterday i watched it for quite a while and ive seen the voltage be at 14.56 and ill shut the bike off and back on amd it will never get past 13.7...completely sporadic...i have no headlights or tail lights drawing juice.

The reason the procom doesnt work with the pcv is absolutely that theres not enough juice! I had a battery in here when i got it and it was at 12.75 and the bike ran fine (all stock)...so i mean i have about as high of normal voltage as someone would have on a kfx now with a new wire harness and battery and regulator and i cant sustain it yet....and to beat that when the voltage drops the wideband sensors are known to not read as accurate. Its recommended to install a small capacitor on motorcycles and atvs to make sure it maintains the needed amerage...thats not said with the pcv autotune but its the same bosch wideband o2 sensor as my other setup thats y i know.
The ecu has 2 dedicated grounds as far as i can tell, do u know for sure??

Im not done yet.....i still think it will work

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post #128 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 05:47 PM
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Well its raining here again so i cant completely confirm, BUT! I installed a second battery in parallel wiring and now it the voltage stays above 14 and the regulator doesnt get nearly so hot....and i was able to run the autotune at an idle and it is working great! So its looking promising...the answer is to fabricate a way to install a second battery in Parallel ONLY! Which keeps it at 12v but it ups the amperage. Where if it were wired in series it would be a 24v and that would likely be the end of every electronic on the bike....!

I will confirm this when the pod-300 arrives and i can data log.

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post #129 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 06:25 PM
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Well its raining here again so i cant completely confirm, BUT! I installed a second battery in parallel wiring and now it the voltage stays above 14 and the regulator doesnt get nearly so hot....and i was able to run the autotune at an idle and it is working great! So its looking promising...the answer is to fabricate a way to install a second battery in Parallel ONLY! Which keeps it at 12v but it ups the amperage. Where if it were wired in series it would be a 24v and that would likely be the end of every electronic on the bike....!

I will confirm this when the pod-300 arrives and i can data log.

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post #130 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 08:16 PM
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HOLY SH!T!! ...... I got to take it out for an hour and it operated on the money across the board! My batteries are maintaining 13.8v and i came back 3 times and loaded the fuel trims....i have no need for second gear lol....i have brand new holeshots 20" with 15/36 sprockets and i can creep in first and mash it and shift in about .5 sec as fast as i can to third and about 1 sec hit 4th and u better hold the f' on....haha Amazing!!! Its a real life face peeler and its still in the process of getting tuned correctly.

With a stroker it will be retarded. I also have an advanced cooler additive in my radiator which dropped my temp 20 degrees.....that means i will be able to go 1 hotter in the plug line given its completely tuned, or lean it a little extra for power in the end now that i am using the procom with the pcv because it has a temp/enrichment safety feature and its sending the voltage thats reading my coolant temp sensor so its the only thing that can tell the exact resistance because the voltage is relative.
Im stoked!!

I will do a final analysis and a write up explaining everything once i get this pod-300 so that i know for sure!

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