TPS setting - Page 10 - Kawasaki KFX450 Forum :: KFX450HQ.com
Engine/EFI/Drivetrain Discuss engine, fuel injection, air intake, and drivetrain modifications here.

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post #91 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 09:18 PM
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Connector

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When did you blow the 30 amp fuse...beginning of your problem or just recently...??

A direct short of the 30amp through the DFI electronics can cause sever damage to the ECU & sensors...

Electrical diagram (color coded)...see below...
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post #92 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:46 AM
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I blew the 30a just now when I installed the new wire harness, ecu, starter sylinoid with 30a fuse , and all relays. The bike started last night and runs great! Still havent rode it. The fan doesnt come on when I unplug the coolant temp sensor but it came on when the temp hit like 175. I have everything working great except I have no neutral reverse lights. And they worked until I plugged the plug in the picture to the neutral/reverse wire and turned the key on. Like 2 days ago.

I have no reverse lockout either...guessing the plunger is stuck.

I'm still trying to figure out what the plug in the pic is for....it reaches around the throttle body area but theres nothing to plug it into...the old harness had it taped off.

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post #93 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 04:00 PM
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The plug your holding is the front/rear brake light switch circuit....! see picture below
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post #94 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 12:50 PM
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My new battery has 13.6v. When I turn the key on it drops to 13.15v untill the fuel pump kicks off and then its 13.25. However when i hit the starter it drops to 10.4v while cranking on a 100cca brand new freshly charged batter.

It doesn't start very easily when cold but if I hook the jumper cables to a 12v car battery sitting here it starts right up...

I have 5 ideas....
1. the missing clutch perch wires that were deleted to my vision but maybe grounding out in the inside of the kill switch housing....

2. Weak stator

3 . Bad regulation

4. Some sort of an issue making my stater turn hard.?

5.. reverse coil polarity?

You know more than me so I'm gonna take ur advice and attempt to move forward from here. What have you got for me man?

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post #95 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blayzin212 View Post
My new battery has 13.6v. When I turn the key on it drops to 13.15v untill the fuel pump kicks off and then its 13.25. However when i hit the starter it drops to 10.4v while cranking on a 100cca brand new freshly charged batter.

It doesn't start very easily when cold but if I hook the jumper cables to a 12v car battery sitting here it starts right up...

I have 5 ideas....
1. the missing clutch perch wires that were deleted to my vision but maybe grounding out in the inside of the kill switch housing....

2. Weak stator

3 . Bad regulation

4. Some sort of an issue making my stater turn hard.?

5.. reverse coil polarity?

You know more than me so I'm gonna take ur advice and attempt to move forward from here. What have you got for me man?

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Careful when jumping your battery with a 400~600 CCA car battery, you can cook your voltage regulator & toast your Digital fuel injection/ DFI electronics...Just be aware of this...

Also higher CCAs will wear out your starter's brushes & pit the starter's armature....

Ok!...for faster starts...Stock ECU make sure your TPS is 62 volts (closed position)...Procom ECU your can set it to 64 volts...!

Can you test the starter's load amperage..??

I'll use My KFX for reference the last time I tested it..battery's voltage 12.8v...starter cranking, battery's voltage drops to 5~7v..load amps 28~26..then recovers to 9~10v..load amps drops to 22 ~15 amps as the motor is turning beginning to start...roughly 3~4 rotation to motor idling...

If your starter is sluggish/struggling to rotate the motor....

1-decompression spring is missing...
2-cam chain tensioner installed wrong/cam chain too tight
3-starter motor brushes are worn...
4-starter reduction gear maybe damaged....
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post #96 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 07:15 AM
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I will check the amp load as soon as I can given my meter is fast enough to keep up.

Since day one having this bike its always turned over just fine...it just wont fire up...after about 10 revolutions it back fires like a damn cannon.... immediately I connect the other battery without turning the key off or changing anything and no more than a second goes by and i hit the start button and it fires strait up.

It will idle all day but when I try to ride it easy with no more than a medium load within 2 min it blows the 30a fuse again. This fuse is number 3. I am going to have to unhook everything that I dont need. I've replaced everything electrical except tps, map,regulator, stator, headlights, the kill/headlight switch on handlebars, and the ignition switch has already been ordered. It does the same thing with the pc5 unhooked but I'm about to put it on a separate fuseable.

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post #97 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blayzin212 View Post
I will check the amp load as soon as I can given my meter is fast enough to keep up.

Since day one having this bike its always turned over just fine...it just wont fire up...after about 10 revolutions it back fires like a damn cannon.... immediately I connect the other battery without turning the key off or changing anything and no more than a second goes by and i hit the start button and it fires strait up.

It will idle all day but when I try to ride it easy with no more than a medium load within 2 min it blows the 30a fuse again. This fuse is number 3. I am going to have to unhook everything that I dont need. I've replaced everything electrical except tps, map,regulator, stator, headlights, the kill/headlight switch on handlebars, and the ignition switch has already been ordered. It does the same thing with the pc5 unhooked but I'm about to put it on a separate fuseable.

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Is your ECU stock/factory or replaced with a procom/black box...???

Does your F.I light remain ON while starting or goes out after 3-seconds...Stays on..Check for error codes...see picture below..

turns off after 3-seconds...Test your water temp sensor for being bad/faulty...see picture below

for the 30amp to blow is usually a 12v wire shorting to frame...

Check your rear brake light wires under the seat near the exhaust slip-on...
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post #98 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 12:31 PM
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I am using a procom. The entire harness has just been replaced...all of it except short wires leading to the regulator...the stator..kill switch and so on...its a brand new water temp sensor, however I know they can sometimes be bad from the get go....I have the old one and I'll swap it out.
I havent had any time to mess with it this week but maybe sunday.

The fuel light stays on for 3 seconds and goes out and there are no codes....I

I think it may be in my neutral/ reverse sensor by the front sprocket...the reverse plunger is frozen and I can shift from first to reverse without touching anything. I'm waiting on a few parts so I can fix the entire rear section at a time.

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post #99 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blayzin212 View Post
I am using a procom. The entire harness has just been replaced...all of it except short wires leading to the regulator...the stator..kill switch and so on...its a brand new water temp sensor, however I know they can sometimes be bad from the get go....I have the old one and I'll swap it out.
I havent had any time to mess with it this week but maybe sunday.

The fuel light stays on for 3 seconds and goes out and there are no codes....I

I think it may be in my neutral/ reverse sensor by the front sprocket...the reverse plunger is frozen and I can shift from first to reverse without touching anything. I'm waiting on a few parts so I can fix the entire rear section at a time.

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First...The Procom doesn't have a self diagnosis circuit..Only the Stock ECU has that function...!!!

two...You can't use another fuel programmer along with the Procom due to the PPR rate/Pulse per revolution...So remove the PCV from your KFX...And adjust the fuel & timing with the Procom (only)...Procom wasted spark 0.5 PPR (fires at TDC like a 2-stroke) Stock ECU 1.0 PPR (fires only on the compression stroke) here's a thread https://www.kfx450hq.com/forums/engi...evolution.html

Stock intake try procom map 2~4...upgraded intake tube start with procom map 6~9..!!!

Here's a thread on Procom with PCV...https://www.kfx450hq.com/forums/dyno...-help-pls.html

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post #100 of 137 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:12 AM
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I removed the pcv and it does run great once I set the ecu to number 7.
The one thing I notice though is that my battery seems to be very slowly dying....it was brand new and fully charged last week. Around 13.7v ....it sat for 3 days and it was down to 12.9v.....I rode for like 45 min and it lost enough juice to not want to start....it will turn over but backfire and not start?
Would this be a regulator?

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