Changing rear bearings??

[Dragit86]

Hello i just noticed a few mins ago that my right side axle bearing has desided to give up lol. Iv got a for questions Iv searched and cant come up with much. I think I understand you take the hubs off, axle nuts, brake disk and slide the axle out? Then do I need to take the carrier out or can I change the bearing with it in? Are the bearings pressed in and I see theres 3 bearings and 2 seals were the seals go? Sry for all the questions just new to this and dont wanna mess it up. Thanks

[nkeen07]

Ok. You're right on disassembly. You have to take brake side (right) hub off, then both axle nuts, and then the brake hub slides right off. Next, slide the axle out of the carrier to the left (assuming you already have the chain off). Check everything and make sure the bearings didn't chew it up too bad.

Next, you'll have to take the carrier out. To do so, there's a lock ring circlip on the brake (right) side holding the brake caliper bracket and chain adjuster guide on. You'll need to take this out, and then the carrier can slide right out to the left. Next take the rubber o-rings off of the outside of the carrier and save them (you'll re-use them). Also, take the seals out and trash them, since new ones should come in bearing kits that All Balls, Pivot Works, or other companies offer. There's a reason for taking the carrier out and taking the o-rings off.

These bearings are pressed into the carrier and back up against ridges. This means they can't be pressed or hammered out...so they have to be pulled. If you have a good bearing puller that expands and gets in behind the bearings you can use it...but if not...here's a VERY simple way. Heat your grill or oven to around 200 degrees F. Wash the outside and inside of your carrier off as to remove as much oil and grease as possible. Once it is pre-heated, stand the carrier up on end on a pan and stick it in. If you have a multi-burner grill, I suggest only running one or two burners if possible and stick the carrier on the end away from open flame. Let it sit. This process can take anywhere from 10 mins to an hour depending on the bearing and rust conditions.

Every so often check it by picking it up w/oven mits. Sometimes the bearing will simply fall out. If it hasn't, every once and a while lightly beat the end of the carrier on the pan. TRUST ME...THEY'LL COME RIGHT OUT. Why? The aluminum expands more than the steal as it has a looser molecular make-up. Once you have one end out, flip it over and do the same thing. The others will probably do the same.

Clean it up, press the new bearings in, and re-assemble. It's that easy.

[Dragit86]

Thanks for the help! I work in a body shop so we got a press but I might have to just try that oven thing it sounds pretty sweet. I just took the swingarm off Im gonna have to take the whole thing to the shop in morning and heat the hub and axle nuts up, there on there good. But thanks again for the info!

[nkeen07]

Make sure you don't try to press them out. It'll hurt your pocket when you have to replace the carrier as well. Lol. And ya...I was amazed the heating trick worked so well. Simply amazing. Good luck

[Slaytanic454]

Coefficient of thermal expansion for Steel is 0.00000645"/in/deg F (6.45 microinches/millionths per inch of material per degree F)

Coefficient of thermal expansion for Aluminum is 0.0000131"/in/deg F


Makes good sense to me

[ononewheel]

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

Ok. You're right on disassembly. You have to take brake side (right) hub off, then both axle nuts, and then the brake hub slides right off. Next, slide the axle out of the carrier to the left (assuming you already have the chain off). Check everything and make sure the bearings didn't chew it up too bad.

Next, you'll have to take the carrier out. To do so, there's a lock ring circlip on the brake (right) side holding the brake caliper bracket and chain adjuster guide on. You'll need to take this out, and then the carrier can slide right out to the left. Next take the rubber o-rings off of the outside of the carrier and save them (you'll re-use them). Also, take the seals out and trash them, since new ones should come in bearing kits that All Balls, Pivot Works, or other companies offer. There's a reason for taking the carrier out and taking the o-rings off.

These bearings are pressed into the carrier and back up against ridges. This means they can't be pressed or hammered out...so they have to be pulled. If you have a good bearing puller that expands and gets in behind the bearings you can use it...but if not...here's a VERY simple way. Heat your grill or oven to around 200 degrees F. Wash the outside and inside of your carrier off as to remove as much oil and grease as possible. Once it is pre-heated, stand the carrier up on end on a pan and stick it in. If you have a multi-burner grill, I suggest only running one or two burners if possible and stick the carrier on the end away from open flame. Let it sit. This process can take anywhere from 10 mins to an hour depending on the bearing and rust conditions.

Every so often check it by picking it up w/oven mits. Sometimes the bearing will simply fall out. If it hasn't, every once and a while lightly beat the end of the carrier on the pan. TRUST ME...THEY'LL COME RIGHT OUT. Why? The aluminum expands more than the steal as it has a looser molecular make-up. Once you have one end out, flip it over and do the same thing. The others will probably do the same.

Clean it up, press the new bearings in, and re-assemble. It's that easy.

very nice!

[nkeen07]

Quote: Originally Posted by Slaytanic454

Coefficient of thermal expansion for Steel is 0.00000645"/in/deg F (6.45 microinches/millionths per inch of material per degree F)

Coefficient of thermal expansion for Aluminum is 0.0000131"/in/deg F


Makes good sense to me

Thanks for the numbers man. It was late and I didn't know them and didn't wanna look them up...so I went with a simpler explanation of molecular composition. This just further provides proof as to why this works. Thanks

[fastjunkie131]

are these bearings sealed or do they need to be greased like the rest of the suspension?

[Dragit86]

Also I noticed some people putting grease zurts in the swingarm? If I was to want to do this were should I put it and is there anything else I need to do? Thanks

[nkeen07]

They are sealed. And they aren't greased from the factory. I can't think of a way you could tap for grease zurts on this carrier...if I think of a way to do it I'll let you know.