Ok just got done installing my Hot Cams stg 1 kx 450 cams and thought I would do a little how to for those who might be a little nervous about tackling something like this.....it's a very easy job just take your time and all will be good.
To start with make sure the bike is clean and dry, change the oil and filter to a mineral oil not syn so it is ready for break in then go ahead and remove the mid section plastics and tank.
Once the tank is off remove the spark plug cap and give it a good blow out with compressed air to make sure there is no dirt in there that could fall into the motor when you remove the spark plug.....once clean remove the plug.
Now go ahead and remove the 3 bolts that hold the tappet cover in place....carefully so as not to damage the rubber gasket....I chose to leave the gasket in place but you can remove it if you feel the need.
Remove the 2 caps on left side of the motor(when seated)so you can turn the motor over by hand to TDC on the compresion stroke.
Now I did forget to take a photo of the timing marks on the cams so the exhaust cam has a line on the sprocket that needs to be level with the top of the cyl head surface while the intake cam has a punch mark that needs to be level. Once you have it at TDC lock the bike in 1st gear and applythe park brake.
Line the timing mark up with the notch in the cover in this photo.
Now an easy way of knowing you are on TDC on the compresion stroke with the tappet cover off is if all your timing marks on the cams and crank are lined up and your cam lobes on both cams are faceing out, that is the lobes on the exhaust cam(front cam)are pointing toward the front of the bike while the lobes of your intake cam(rear cam)are faceing the rear of the bike as in this pic.
Now go ahead and check your tappet clearance with feeler gauges....chances are if they are in spec you will not have to touch them once you install the new cams BUT ALWAYS check to make sure. Write down what each tappets clearance is for reference later....you should have a workshop manual and it clearly states what the clearance should be.
If you would like to make things a little easier I suggest removeing the left motor mount to give better access to the tensioner then remove the tensioner.
Now that the cam chain is loose stuff some clean rags into the cavities so you dont drop any parts down into the motor. Undo the cam cap bolts in sequence(they are numbered)and remove the spark plug gasket(sits on top of right side cap assembly)and cam caps carefully so you dont lose the tiny brass oil pipes that join both cam caps or the locating half moon pieces that sit under the left side caps.....also be carefull of the 4 locating dowels as well.
Now grab the cam chain with one hand and lift up as you menouver the cams from the motor.....use a piece of wire to tie the chain up and out of the way once the cams are removed.
Now its time to swap the decomp mech from your stock exh cam to the new cam. Wrap the cam good with a rag and place in a vice so you can remove the 2 allen head bolts from the decomp.
Clean the 2 bolts and threads with brake cleaner and let dry then apply a non perminent thread locker and install the decomp onto the new cam and torque to specs.
Now your ready to install the new cams so go ahead and coat them in cam lube then install the exh cam first while keeping tension on the chain and ensureing that your timing mark is inline with the cyl head top and the lobes faceing out, do the same with the intake.....count 29 pins on the chain from the exh cam mark to the int came punch mark.
Install cam caps and oil pipes and torque to spec then check your tappet clearance and compare to your earlier notes.....mine were right in the middle of the suggested specs with the stock cams and it did not change with the new cams but each case is different. If you need different shims refer to the shop manual on how to calculate so you can order the correct ones.
With the cam chain tensioner you will need a small flat blade screw driver to insert in the end and turn clockwise while putting presure on the rod to retract it......you DONT need the holder plate even though the manual states that you do.....if you are carefull it will hold in by itself until you install and do the bolts up, then you will hear it pop out and tension the chain.
Install your tappet and spark plug gasket.....make sure all surfaces are clean.....I used a little anerobic gasket sealer to make sure. Torque the tappet cover to specs and install your spark plug then reassemble the machine and your are ready for start up.
DO NOT LET IT IDLE upon start up.....bring the revs upto aroun 3000 rpm for the first 30 mins or so. You can ride it around or do it stationary but only light loads and no excessive revs. Change out your oil and filter again after this initial run and I would not change to full syn for a couple of changes at least.
I will hopefully have a run on mine later today and will report back on what I felt seat of pants good or bad.