Everyone please chime in here

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1

The results are in!

1. Battery voltage with all switches off. = 12.25-12.14 (12.14 after starting the ATV 2 times in a row with only letting it run a few seconds)

2.Current draw with the key switch in the off position and thumb switch in the on position. = 0.079 DC mA (this is the number you want. This is the amount of current the comuter is drawing with the ATV turned off)

I hooked the the current meter (+) lead to the (+) terminal on the battery and the current meter (-) lead to the (+) main battery wire. This make the current flow through the meter. This how you measure current. For shits and giggles I try to turn the key on with the with the current meter hooked up and as expected it blew the fuse in my meter.

I hope i did not mess up but I did hit the wrench on the frame taking the positive battery lead off and made some sparks. I know I am suppose to take the negative lead loose first but I was trying to take a short cut.

Bless you... lol...

I doubt you hurt anything but your meter fuse..

Thanks for the trouble and sparks.

I will have to go back and look, but I think my lowest measurement has been twice that in mA.

0.13 - 0.15 mA.... I think.

I checked the same way too... + terminal to + cable.

All I gotta do now is disconnect items the ECU "supplies" while checking draw.

Money says it's crank sensor, or internal ECU.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

OK, worked 12 hrs lastnight, and have not been to bed, so documenting so I don't forget.

So far...

Parasitic drain = 0.15 mA.... Key on = 0.17 mA

This has zero to do with the kill switch... no change.
It's something else.
I have yet to be able to turn it off any way that makes more draw.


0.380 K ohm from + cable to - cable
0.380 K ohm from + cable to frame ground wire.
No continuity

Interestingly, the bike kills with the same clack noise when the + cable is disconnected as I hear when it does it's unexpected stalls.

That is all I have for now, and I'm too mentally tired to figure out what to check next now. So I parked it in gear, key off, kill off.

Yep, up top is my draw measurements from last Wednesday with 12.15v at the battery.

0.15 mA off
0.17 mA key on

0.13 mA yesterday with lower batter voltage... 11.??v

0 mA ECU disconnected.


I don't know enough to understand what mA is... but I know I have more than twice the current flow/draw in my system. Don't know how much mA would = dead battery overnight.

Very happy I have gotten somewhere on this though.
Will check with disconnecting ECU-powered items.
Then get it on into the shop.

Those of you with the problem may want to do the check after I finish this last series of tests. Then maybe look to RMStator or Procom for a replacement ECU... if this turns out to be the "for-sure" problem.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

I don't know enough to understand what mA is... but I know I have more than twice the current flow/draw in my system. Don't know how much mA would = dead battery overnight.

I might be over-thinking...

But the more I think about that, the more I think that might not be very much current flow... draw...

It can't be compared to car articles because the battery is only a 6 amp hour battery @ a 10 hour rating.

But it still seems like a small amount of draw.... even though I don't know.

Makes me keep on going back to think that the problem draw might shut off from the act of disconnecting the battery to test the draw.

But then again, I don't know how long it should take to drain a battery with that sort of mA draw.

If that is not the killer draw, what I need to be doing is charging the battery and then unplugging the ECU... and if that's not it, charge and pull a fuse... and so on...

[thomasdjames1]

I think you are on the correct track Duster. I could calculate approx. how long it would take to drain your battery with the .13-.15 mA draw but the point is that it is too high. Mine is half of yours so something is wrong with yours. Anyways you are on the correct approach with trying to unplug different components and then check the current draw. What you need to remember is that unplugging the ECU MIGHT mask another problem component. The ECU provides the ground source for certain components. What this means is that if you unhook the ECU it might then stop current flow because there is not a ground for a “leaking” or shorted component. All I am saying is start by unhooking the voltage regulator/ rectifier or some like that (maybe crank position sensor, fuel pump relay, etc). May sure to only unhook one component at a time so you know which one is bad. Then, measure the mA draw. It should be pretty simple now that you have a base line of what the mA draw should be (0.079mA). Just hook up your meter and start unplugging different components till the mA draw drops. Please let us know what you find. Also do not hesitate to call me if you need any help. Good luck and I hope we can get to the bottom of this frustrating problem. If someone else with a working electrical system could do what I did and measure their current draw it would be helpful.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1

I think you are on the correct track Duster. I could calculate approx. how long it would take to drain your battery with the .13-.15 mA draw but the point is that it is too high. Mine is half of yours so something is wrong with yours. Anyways you are on the correct approach with trying to unplug different components and then check the current draw. What you need to remember is that unplugging the ECU MIGHT mask another problem component. The ECU provides the ground source for certain components. What this means is that if you unhook the ECU it might then stop current flow because there is not a ground for a “leaking” or shorted component. All I am saying is start by unhooking the voltage regulator/ rectifier or some like that (maybe crank position sensor, fuel pump relay, etc). May sure to only unhook one component at a time so you know which one is bad. Then, measure the mA draw. It should be pretty simple now that you have a base line of what the mA draw should be (0.079mA). Just hook up your meter and start unplugging different components till the mA draw drops. Please let us know what you find. Also do not hesitate to call me if you need any help. Good luck and I hope we can get to the bottom of this frustrating problem. If someone else with a working electrical system could do what I did and measure their current draw it would be helpful.

Right.

I know the draw is coming from the ECU or something it supplies.
It supplies ground to several things and power to several things.
And some things it supplies both to... such as the sensors.

I know it is the ECU or something it supplies because the draw I'm getting goes totally to zero when I unhook the ECU.

So I will leave it unhooked and start unhooking things it supplies, one at a time.
If I find one thing I'll be somewhat suspicious of that part also.
If not, I'll know it's the ECU itself.

I'm starting with the crank sensor, then rectifier, and then moving on to sensors and such.
I suspect the crank sensor most.


And yes, if anyone else is willing to measure draw, that would be great too.

I'm not starting on this right now.
It's 20 degrees...
And as we say in the south.... the wind is blowing "ahunderdmileanair".

[thomasdjames1]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1

I think you are on the correct track Duster. I could calculate approx. how long it would take to drain your battery with the .13-.15 mA draw but the point is that it is too high. Mine is half of yours so something is wrong with yours. Anyways you are on the correct approach with trying to unplug different components and then check the current draw. What you need to remember is that unplugging the ECU MIGHT mask another problem component. The ECU provides the ground source for certain components. What this means is that if you unhook the ECU it might then stop current flow because there is not a ground for a “leaking” or shorted component. All I am saying is start by unhooking the voltage regulator/ rectifier or some like that (maybe crank position sensor, fuel pump relay, etc). May sure to only unhook one component at a time so you know which one is bad. Then, measure the mA draw. It should be pretty simple now that you have a base line of what the mA draw should be (0.079mA). Just hook up your meter and start unplugging different components till the mA draw drops. Please let us know what you find. Also do not hesitate to call me if you need any help. Good luck and I hope we can get to the bottom of this frustrating problem. If someone else with a working electrical system could do what I did and measure their current draw it would be helpful.

Right.

I know the draw is coming from the ECU or something it supplies.
It supplies ground to several things and power to several things.
And some things it supplies both to... such as the sensors.

I know it is the ECU or something it supplies because the draw I'm getting goes totally to zero when I unhook the ECU.

So I will leave it unhooked and start unhooking things it supplies, one at a time.
If I find one thing I'll be somewhat suspicious of that part also.
If not, I'll know it's the ECU itself.

I'm starting with the crank sensor, then rectifier, and then moving on to sensors and such.
I suspect the crank sensor most.


And yes, if anyone else is willing to measure draw, that would be great too.

I'm not starting on this right now.
It's 20 degrees...
And as we say in the south.... the wind is blowing "ahunderdmileanair".

I am not sure if you made a typo or not but you said that you are going to leave the ECU UNHOOKED while unhooking other sensors and what not. You need to leave the ECU HOOKED UP so that you will see a drop in current flow (mA) when you unhook the bad component. What you are looking for is a change the current meter reading. What I would do is put one of the current meter probes under the (+) batter terminal screw and tighten it down so it holds it (you might need a washer on the screw). Then attach the other probe of the current meter to the (+) quad wire (use a bolt and nut or alligator clip to attach them, just make sure they have a good connection). Make sure you leave the key switch off the whole time or you will blow you fuse in the meter. Then start unhooking different components and watch the amp draw as you go. You are looking for a big drop. Should be about 0.079 mA. Make sure you only unplug one thing at a time so you know what it is. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Duster]

Yeah I made a typo... it was past my bedtime in the morning... lol.

Won't get to mess with it today.
Never did get above freezing and the wind is still blowing like crazy.
If I try taking that cover off they will be lifting my remains out of the tree line with a bucket truck.

[thomasdjames1]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Yeah I made a typo... it was past my bedtime in the morning... lol.

Won't get to mess with it today.
Never did get above freezing and the wind is still blowing like crazy.
If I try taking that cover off they will be lifting my remains out of the tree line with a bucket truck.

haha

Ok well just let us know what you find whenever you get a chance to look at it some more. Good luck

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Yeah I made a typo... it was past my bedtime in the morning... lol.

Won't get to mess with it today.
Never did get above freezing and the wind is still blowing like crazy.
If I try taking that cover off they will be lifting my remains out of the tree line with a bucket truck.

haha

Ok well just let us know what you find whenever you get a chance to look at it some more. Good luck

Didn't have time to draw test and start disconnecting things...
Interestingly, the battery seems to have settled at 12.52v in neutral.

But the ECU is sending power out to things for sure.

I want to say I had like 60 mV on the LB wire to the sensors and like 16 mV on the one wire going to the crank sensor.


I wish there was a diagram for the ECU circuits. I for one would think the supply for these things ought to be on the "key-on" circuit of the ECU.


Hopefully I'll get to start the draw testing and disconnecting things tomorrow.

I really think I need to try and make a "jumper wire" from a battery cable to a battery terminal that I can unhook AFTER I already have my meter in contact to read. I think I might be killing the big draw from the act of disconnecting the battery. I might fry a meter trying that though.

[Duster]

Well, I unplugged the following...

Hood
Regulator/Rectifier & Stator
Crank Sensor
Roll Over Sensor
All 4 relays on the posts
Throttle Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
Air Pressure Sensor
Gear Position Sensor


Reading stayed a constant 0.15 mA


I can't get the inlet air temp sensor connector off.
That and the IC Igniter wire going to the ignition coil is all I lack.
Well, except a bunch of continuity checks?

If it is not one of those things, then the easy answer is I have a bad ECU.

I still think I have yet to see the big drain though that kills a battery overnight.

IF I hook the battery up with alligator clips, crank up, and shut off some different ways.... then hook the meter up and disconnect the alligator clips AFTER the meter is in-line.... WILL THIS FRY MY METER???? I am thinking no....