Everyone please chime in here

Duster · #**121** (**permalink**) 02-08-2010, 06:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider

duster it may be the regulator, remember a while back, i took mine in after 3 times and they changed the battery told me nothing was wrong, happend again and i took it back they changed battery again, finally the 3rd time they told me it was the regulator and stator that were bad

Yeah, I sure do remember that.

I forgot to check the stator also.

Two questions for you though...
Did you ever check your voltage while running? (If so, voltage #'s?)
Did you ever die of a dead battery while running?

thomasdjames1 · #**122** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 07:17 AM

Not sure if you have an aftermarket tether switch installed on your machine but I have suspected the rectifier/ regulator, stator, or the ECU from the beginning. I mostly suspect the rectifier/ regulator or stator because people have had problems installing normally open tether switches in the past. From reading other post on either this web site or another one I know people have burned up rectifier/ regulators or stators before with an improperly installed tether switch.

You may have already read or you may be like me and have written some of these post but I hope they help.

This is about the battery drain problem
http://www.kfx450central.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1223&hl=kill+switch

This tread is about the tether switch installation
http://www.kfx450central.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=5910&hl=kill+switch

Duster · #**123** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 05:53 PM

Weather has been lousy today...
Been stuck inside waiting all day to uncover it.
Frame has been up on my quad garage since before Christmas.
Just hasn't been dry enough to close it in since.
Glad it's a metal frame.

Anyways, I was looking into how to check the stator out.
I think all I can do at home is check battery voltage while running and check resistance.

But I think I found another possible typo in the service manual for the resistance check.
Not sure because I have not looked at the bike.
But I thought all the stator wires were yellow.

Have a look.... and if you have an explanation let me know...

AZkfx450rider · #**124** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 06:22 PM

duster i didnt manually test anything on mince cause if its under warranty i dont touch it, as if they find out you are poking around they can void warranty

but it could be the stator/regulator as that is what they told me was wrong with mine

on the tether killswitches, the problems comes from people that tried to wire it into the factory kill button, and they used the wrong type im not sure if its open or closed, but to be on the safe side i just soldered mine onto the coil or whatever that thing is thats in the right side inside the frame

Duster · #**125** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 06:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider

duster i didnt manually test anything on mince cause if its under warranty i dont touch it, as if they find out you are poking around they can void warranty

but it could be the stator/regulator as that is what they told me was wrong with mine

on the tether killswitches, the problems comes from people that tried to wire it into the factory kill button, and they used the wrong type im not sure if its open or closed, but to be on the safe side i just soldered mine onto the coil or whatever that thing is thats in the right side inside the frame

OK, thanks.

On the wiring and kill switches, I think this thing is a mess.
From a dummies prospective, wired stupid and also has excessive wiring.

The ECU knows everything except when the lights are on.
It don't need all that info...

And to me it would seem smarter to wire it where nothing is hot with the key off... except maybe a low voltage memory wire to the ECU.

Duster · #**126** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 06:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1

Not sure if you have an aftermarket tether switch installed on your machine but I have suspected the rectifier/ regulator, stator, or the ECU from the beginning. I mostly suspect the rectifier/ regulator or stator because people have had problems installing normally open tether switches in the past. From reading other post on either this web site or another one I know people have burned up rectifier/ regulators or stators before with an improperly installed tether switch.

You may have already read or you may be like me and have written some of these post but I hope they help.

This is about the battery drain problem
http://www.kfx450central.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1223&hl=kill+switch

This tread is about the tether switch installation
http://www.kfx450central.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=5910&hl=kill+switch

Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider

on the tether killswitches, the problems comes from people that tried to wire it into the factory kill button, and they used the wrong type im not sure if its open or closed, but to be on the safe side i just soldered mine onto the coil or whatever that thing is thats in the right side inside the frame

Like I said, the problem was around after the first ride.
Did not even have a tether then.

Now I do though, and have the Pro Armor with install kit.

Never been used... just tested once to see that it worked.
(wanted to make sure my ground was good)

I don't even hook it up unless I feel I might need it.
And so far I have not... Have not raced it yet.

Anyways, here's Pro Armor's secret on the install kit let out of the bag...

One side of the bar tether connects to a ground.
The other side connects to a wire harness.
The wire harness provides 2 factory plugs.

It plugs 'in-line' on the crank sensor wire.

All it does is ground the signal coming from the crank sensor to the ECU.
When activated, the signal is grounded.

There are 22 signals each engine RPM.
Loss of a single signal from the crank sensor and the ECU kills the engine instantly.

When the crank stops turning, there is no signal to ground.

I don't see how that would ever hurt anything if it was used.

Duster · #**127** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 07:01 PM

As stated yesterday, I put the battery on the charger.
Charged it right up and it had a charge of 13.03v after the charger was unhooked.
Battery holds charge fine out of the bike.

Put the bike in neutral and with the switches off.
Put the battery back in last night.

Just went out and checked it.
I've got 12.57v now.

So it has lost some already while in neutral.
Not touching it again until tomorrow.
Might drop down to just above 11v by then.

Or should I get back out there and test draw now?
Just to see if it is above what I got yesterday on the battery that had drawn no more?

I'm sorta dead in the water here unless I can catch it at a higher or lower draw.
Or one of you guys who's never had an issue checks and tells me what your draw is... so I know what is normal for ecu memory, etc.

AZkfx450rider · #**128** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 07:13 PM

if its drawing now, i would say go test it and try differnet stuff like flipping the kill button on and off to see if that changes the draw

Duster · #**129** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 07:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider

if its drawing now, i would say go test it and try differnet stuff like flipping the kill button on and off to see if that changes the draw

I did that yesterday when I had "a" draw.

Nothing changed anything until I unplugged the ECU.
Then I had no draw.

Might be a normal draw though... I dunno.

I'm tempted to check it to see if I have more draw right now.
Weather is back at it though, so I will wait for advice on that.

thomasdjames1 · #**130** (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 07:30 PM

I will go out and try to test my current draw but I do not think it will be measurable from just them memory. You also have to figure the voltage will drop a little when take the battery out and install it in the quad from the outside temp. The colder the temp the worse a battery works. I will measure my battery voltage too.