Everyone please chime in here

[Duster]

Well, I called Kawi... and wow... do I ever "get it" on what the service manager had to say when we talked last.

Very pleasant and nice customer support... really... I was surprised.
But not really helpful at all.

They couldn't provide me that specification.

The only thing they really had to say is that they have received a TON of calls on this. I was told "It has been explained to me that this is an issue of parking it in gear. Although this is a typical thing to do sometimes, apparently this can somehow cause an open in the electrical system and a current draw. Although the draw is small it can drain the battery in the course of a day or two."

They couldn't even verify if it was a malfunctioning neutral switch or not, much less explain how it's happening... or how I can park in gear, kill off without a drain.

That really makes no more sense than in gear, kill switch on.

Pitiful really. The LG wire is just a ground wire, connected to the switch, the light, starter control relay, and you guessed it.... the ECU. And best I can tell, it is intended to ground power from the BR wire to burn the indicator light and close the starter control relay..... yet the problem remains that there is no power on the BR wire with the key off.

I can make no sense of any of it.... unless it is not wired as specified....

So I maintain the theory that all who have this problem have a faulty ECU.
Just gotta figure out how to prove it.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

The yellow read having continuity w/the switch on makes sense. With the switch on and kill switch on you would have current flowing to it. But...here's where understanding on that falls apart for me. This technically should still be @ 12 volts...so you should have a voltage drop between the two. The same amount of current should be flowing @ both nodes (on both wires) w/the switch on. I don't have too much time to like @ the schematic again tho.

(+) lead to battery terminal (-) to Y/R = battery voltage
(as if the Y/R was a ground)

Kill switch on, key off...
Nothing with both off...

I was afraid to turn the key on and check... lol...
I just don't know enough... so I didn't want to check what I rationalize as + to +.

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

I wish you could find some needles to check continuity across the resistors. I wouldn't have an idea where to get them...maybe Radio Shack or an electronics store ???

Where are the resistors?
I saw some symbols... squares/rectangles... triangles...

[AZkfx450rider]

just park the damn thing in nuetral!!!! LOL

[nkeen07]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

The yellow read having continuity w/the switch on makes sense. With the switch on and kill switch on you would have current flowing to it. But...here's where understanding on that falls apart for me. This technically should still be @ 12 volts...so you should have a voltage drop between the two. The same amount of current should be flowing @ both nodes (on both wires) w/the switch on. I don't have too much time to like @ the schematic again tho.

(+) lead to battery terminal (-) to Y/R = battery voltage
(as if the Y/R was a ground)

Kill switch on, key off...
Nothing with both off...

I was afraid to turn the key on and check... lol...
I just don't know enough... so I didn't want to check what I rationalize as + to +.

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

I wish you could find some needles to check continuity across the resistors. I wouldn't have an idea where to get them...maybe Radio Shack or an electronics store ???

Where are the resistors?
I saw some symbols... squares/rectangles... triangles...

Sorry...was workin on some linear circuit homework earlier and wasn't paying attention when I typed that. I meant continuity with key off across the relays. Resistor is denoted by a triangular wave-like shape though...just for reference. Most electrical circuit elements have some form of internal resistance...measured in ohm's (hints the ohmmeter or ohm's law [V=IR]).

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider

just park the damn thing in nuetral!!!! LOL

I checked that switch just for reference.

When you take the tank off (bitch) the connector to it is right there over the rubber part of the intake.

The Neutral switch and Reverse switch are just ground switches.
That's all.

In position they beep continuity to the frame.
Out they don't.

All they do is supply a ground source I guess.

That's all.
I can't see how they make a difference at all... much like the kill switch.

It's only a ground supply to a dash light and a relay that don't have any power to them without the switch on.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

Sorry...was workin on some linear circuit homework earlier and wasn't paying attention when I typed that. I meant continuity with key off across the relays. Resistor is denoted by a triangular wave-like shape though...just for reference. Most electrical circuit elements have some form of internal resistance...measured in ohm's (hints the ohmmeter or ohm's law [V=IR]).

OK... I'll go back and check.
Turns out I don't need needles for the relay terminals.
Plenty of room.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07

Sorry...was workin on some linear circuit homework earlier and wasn't paying attention when I typed that. I meant continuity with key off across the relays. Resistor is denoted by a triangular wave-like shape though...just for reference. Most electrical circuit elements have some form of internal resistance...measured in ohm's (hints the ohmmeter or ohm's law [V=IR]).

OK... I'll go back and check.
Turns out I don't need needles for the relay terminals.
Plenty of room.

I checked for power and whatnot and all checked out.

Then I started looking at what terminals I should be checking for continuity and sort of blanked out. I've been away over 24 hrs at this point... and all of them are wired a little different... But hey... it beeps if you check the W/R wire to the frame... lol... toooooo tired.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider

if you can check the diodes on the regulator make sure they are installed correctly

I checked the regulator/rectifier out... and then realized I went through this process a year ago.... I'm going to search and dig it up to compare notes because I think it is different this time.

Anyways, it reads different with every meter I check it with.
I tend to trust my analog on it more than the others though.
It at least matches readings on 2 different ones.

It does not spec out though... although it seems to work for charging purposes when the bike is running.

Just like the crank sensor, the regulator/rectifier reads ohms that are too low.

I'm going to take the rectifier down to the dealer tomorrow and have them put the Kawasaki hand tester to it (I don't have one of those). But that is provided it doesn't snow yet again.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1

If you can get the quad to recreate the problem every day then I would just start unplugging different components and see when the problem stops. I would charge the battery during the day then unplug one of the components hooked to the white wire and leave it unplugged all night and see if it will crank the next morning. I would start with the rect. or fuel pump relay. I will be you will find the problem in just a few days using the approach. If it is the rect. then it could just be a bad diode but it might not be hard to find any other way.

In the end I resorted back to this anyways... except I went about it different. I left the battery alone and just unplugged things in every possible pattern.

The ONLY draw I am getting is coming directly from the ECU.

Kill switch position and gear position changes made no difference in this draw.

But it may not be the killer draw that kills the battery I am reading right now.
I think not because I think it stops in the 11v range... or I did something to cause it to stop in that range.

My only regret is that I got too tired to go through with disconnecting things the ECU "supplies" power/ground to.

Battery is back on the charger.

[AZkfx450rider]

duster it may be the regulator, remember a while back, i took mine in after 3 times and they changed the battery told me nothing was wrong, happend again and i took it back they changed battery again, finally the 3rd time they told me it was the regulator and stator that were bad