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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 09:13 AM
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If you can get the quad to recreate the problem every day then I would just start unplugging different components and see when the problem stops. I would charge the battery during the day then unplug one of the components hooked to the white wire and leave it unplugged all night and see if it will crank the next morning. I would start with the rect. or fuel pump relay. I will be you will find the problem in just a few days using the approach. If it is the rect. then it could just be a bad diode but it might not be hard to find any other way.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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I wasted all morning looking for a needle adapter set or needle test leads.
None to be had or found anywhere in my area.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:36 PM
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That sucks man. Sorry to hear that. I guess the best way to do it then it to unplug and check like thomasdjames1 mentioned.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 01:43 PM
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the reason i asked about the diodes duster is they are supposed to block/limit the signal in on direction, and let the signla flow the other direction, if installed incorrectly it could cause an issue
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by thomasdjames1 View Post
If you can get the quad to recreate the problem every day then I would just start unplugging different components and see when the problem stops. I would charge the battery during the day then unplug one of the components hooked to the white wire and leave it unplugged all night and see if it will crank the next morning. I would start with the rect. or fuel pump relay. I will be you will find the problem in just a few days using the approach. If it is the rect. then it could just be a bad diode but it might not be hard to find any other way.
Quote: Originally Posted by nkeen07 View Post
That sucks man. Sorry to hear that. I guess the best way to do it then it to unplug and check like thomasdjames1 mentioned.
That would make it very easy to find the offending circuit.
However, at this point I've lost the patients to wait a day a piece.

I could just do it the normal way... measure draw and have someone start unhooking stuff.

But to be honest that is a hard thing to do when you don't have a baseline to go by.

I would have to know what "NORMAL" draw is, for the ecu memory etc...
In other words, someone with zero problems would have to check there's.

Then I would know if I'm "recreating" the drain or not.
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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 01:49 PM
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kawi should be able to tell you what the draw should be, if any, i dont know the ecu memory works
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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 02:03 PM
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I decided out of frustration to unplug the Y/R wire off the coil and see if I could find anything.
As the BR wire, it didn't have voltage on it.

HOWEVER, I get battery voltage in the following manner....

(-) lead to Y/R wire (+) lead to battery positive terminal

Zilch with the switch off.


Remember I am pretty dumb with this stuff.... so go easy on me.
How is this wire able to be a ground with the switch on?
Is the Y/R wire acting as a ground through the BR wire, through the ECU and onto the BK/Y frame ground?

I'm stupid on this stuff... that might be expected?

There is probably a test I should do at the other Y/R... on the terminal connector for the fuel pump relay.


I'm going to go on about testing what I can without the needle adapters.
I can check for power crossing the relays by looking at the diagram.
I can also check for power to the sensors and stuff.
And I can check the Regulator/Rectifier.... Probably more stuff.
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 02:08 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by AZkfx450rider View Post
kawi should be able to tell you what the draw should be, if any, i dont know the ecu memory works
Yeah, I need to call them... forgot I had already passed over the time zone difference.

Thanks for reminding me.
(Running on no sleep after a 12 hr night shift again)
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ProArmor PowerGRIP System
ProArmor full skid protection
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Walsh lower stem bearing
Derisi Racing Suspension
CCP Steering Stabilizer
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 03:03 PM
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The yellow read having continuity w/the switch on makes sense. With the switch on and kill switch on you would have current flowing to it. But...here's where understanding on that falls apart for me. This technically should still be @ 12 volts...so you should have a voltage drop between the two. The same amount of current should be flowing @ both nodes (on both wires) w/the switch on. I don't have too much time to like @ the schematic again tho.
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 03:05 PM
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I wish you could find some needles to check continuity across the resistors. I wouldn't have an idea where to get them...maybe Radio Shack or an electronics store ???
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