Review for you K&N and Maxima guys

[kawa x]

Quote: Originally Posted by georgiakfx

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Quote: Originally Posted by georgiakfx

if i were you dust, i would trash the cotton filter and go to uni/no toil which ever you prefer. you go back to a foam filter you can probably still run your intake the way it sits now with no problem.

This is why I don't have a k&n on none of my bikes, they are straight uni. I never get anything past them, I run/race in clay, mud, sand, silt, it all stays on the filter and doesn't pass.

All my buddies ride k&n on their hondas and talk crap about my uni and kawi, but when they are replacing their top end I'm still riding my kawi.

Since you are "straight UNI" let me ask you a question...

Have you ever had anything unfortunate to hit your filter?
Water/Mud?

Just curious how water proof the UNI oil might be?

I never have had such a situation on anything I had a UNI on... and I don't have any of the oil left here. I ran out some time ago, and just used the old No-Toil oil which worked, but that oil took the UNI apart on the last cleaning (it used to use alcohol as an evaporate thinner).

I've seen a video that showed the No-Toil oil had no water resistance like the Maxima FAB-1... and I'll check to see how true that is when I service that No-Toil fast filter in the picture.

I don't run uni oil, my local kawi shop cuts me some deals since I race with them so I run the kawi chem. That stuff is badass, mineral spirits or gas can't even get it off. I have never had a problem with mud/ water getting past, I could go out right now a take a pic of the intake tube and it be clean enough to drink from.

I clean the filter with the kawi chem cleaner, let it dry then oil it, and then put rim grease on the contact area. I think that people not greasing the filter contact area will allow some of the dust past.

Yeah that's true that grease plays a big part for the foam filters...

[Duster]

Pretty sure the KawaChem filter oil is No-Toil oil...

I sure couldn't tell the difference when I checked out the stock filter.


HOPEFULLY though, it is the NEW version, if you are using it on the UNI, because the old version took mine apart (at the seams).

Is the cleaner a powder?.... If so, measure the same amount of OxyClean or Sun Oxygen cleaner and try it.


Or I can try it... I have the dirty stocker in a bag somewhere....

[360 KFX]

Yea alot of guys i know puts the white grease right inside the edge of the there intake tube. And after doing this no one that has done this will run anykind of cotton type filters.

And don't think I just a haiter, I went to buy a cotton filter at the local bike/race shop. The sales guy took me out to the shop and showed me an intake tube that had been running a K&N fiter that was covered in dust. it was at the shop to get top end done.

I think he would just sell me the high dollar filter and get his cut, but he instead taught me a valuable lesson that was free for me. Cool with me!

Just saying!!!

And this is the kind of thing i come to this forum for. If you just want to OMG and LOL, go to Facebook. I enjoy everyones opinion on these such subjects. And as far as I am concerned as bad as the KFX's intake and air box is, we need about 3 more of these types of threads.

[georgiakfx]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Pretty sure the KawaChem filter oil is No-Toil oil...

I sure couldn't tell the difference when I checked out the stock filter.


HOPEFULLY though, it is the NEW version, if you are using it on the UNI, because the old version took mine apart (at the seams).

Is the cleaner a powder?.... If so, measure the same amount of OxyClean or Sun Oxygen cleaner and try it.


Or I can try it... I have the dirty stocker in a bag somewhere....

yeah it's made my no-toil, i havn't had a problem with it messing up the uni, but my stock filter the outer foam where glued came apart.

the cleaner is a powder and it's some strong stuff, after I oil the filter I sprinkle some on my hands to get the oil off and you can just feel all the heat from the chemical reaction. I'll have to try the detergent with it next time.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by georgiakfx

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Pretty sure the KawaChem filter oil is No-Toil oil...

I sure couldn't tell the difference when I checked out the stock filter.


HOPEFULLY though, it is the NEW version, if you are using it on the UNI, because the old version took mine apart (at the seams).

Is the cleaner a powder?.... If so, measure the same amount of OxyClean or Sun Oxygen cleaner and try it.


Or I can try it... I have the dirty stocker in a bag somewhere....

yeah it's made my no-toil, i havn't had a problem with it messing up the uni, but my stock filter the outer foam where glued came apart.

the cleaner is a powder and it's some strong stuff, after I oil the filter I sprinkle some on my hands to get the oil off and you can just feel all the heat from the chemical reaction. I'll have to try the detergent with it next time.

Yep... that's the oxygen bleach you feel...

And it would be the alcohol in the old No-Toil oil "they found" was what caused the separation... The alcohol was an evaporate thinner... thinned the oil for application and evaporated leaving it very tacky... and this is what they found was causing the damage.

So now there is the Evolution oil... no alcohol... from No-Toil.

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Quote: Originally Posted by georgiakfx

if i were you dust, i would trash the cotton filter and go to uni/no toil which ever you prefer. you go back to a foam filter you can probably still run your intake the way it sits now with no problem.

This is why I don't have a k&n on none of my bikes, they are straight uni. I never get anything past them, I run/race in clay, mud, sand, silt, it all stays on the filter and doesn't pass.

All my buddies ride k&n on their hondas and talk crap about my uni and kawi, but when they are replacing their top end I'm still riding my kawi.

Since you are "straight UNI" let me ask you a question...

Have you ever had anything unfortunate to hit your filter?
Water/Mud?

Just curious how water proof the UNI oil might be?

I never have had such a situation on anything I had a UNI on... and I don't have any of the oil left here. I ran out some time ago, and just used the old No-Toil oil which worked, but that oil took the UNI apart on the last cleaning (it used to use alcohol as an evaporate thinner).

I've seen a video that showed the No-Toil oil had no water resistance like the Maxima FAB-1... and I'll check to see how true that is when I service that No-Toil fast filter in the picture.

As it turns out, it is absolutely very TRUE that the old No-Toil foam filter oil has ZERO water resistance. I mean none.

In the process though I decided to check the Maxima to compare.
Here is a quote of the results.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duster

Well, I have to issue a retraction on my statements...

At this point I must say I can no longer say anything negative about the FAB-1 filter oil.


I put it through some very harsh testing in use on K&N elements.

I had issues eventually with it passing water, mud, and also eventually dust.
But after further review and more checking things I have figured out....


This oil is actually VERY water resistant it turns out... and very good at catching dust.


Truth of the matter I found out is that my experiences were due to shortcomings of the filter elements... not the oil.

For dust, they do not provide ample media depth for trapping.
I mean it will work perfectly for a few hours....
Then it will gradually start to fail and pass dust.
The pores are too large and the depth is too shallow to provide lasting protection as air continues to pass through.


For water, I just did some flat out "dunk tests" in a sink.
Doing so, I found the 2 causes for passing water/muddy water...

In operation on the bike, the reason I saw passing of muddy water was... one, muddy water landing on and standing in the pleats without me knowing while the engine ran. And secondly, water just flat out passes at the ends of the element... where the cotton gauze is connected to the end caps.

Apparently the gauze gets contaminated right at the edge where it is inserted into the hot glue or melted plastic or whatever the process is.... and the contaminated fringes are unable to absorb any oil.

If I can just get this video upload to work, I'll let you SEE instead of read.

[Mad Mattress]

I'm having no issues with my K&N with outerwears, nothing in the tube at all. Then again, I'm running the stock intake. Maybe it's not sucking hard enough, because it sucks!

[the KFX kid 450]

smell my finger tell that dont stink sorry coudnt help myself

[Duster]

Quote: Originally Posted by AlwaysFnL8

I'm having no issues with my K&N with outerwears, nothing in the tube at all. Then again, I'm running the stock intake. Maybe it's not sucking hard enough, because it sucks!

Looks like you ride sand... and a K&N plus outerwears would be fine for that.
Maybe even one of the best choices.

Reason being is sand is a LARGE particulate.
The majority of particles that would make their way into your airbox would just deflect off the outerwears.

The fine clay dust particles we have here go right through the outerwears and right through the K&N like they are not even there.

[Duster]

Here is a couple of good pictures courtesy of 360 KFX...

These were taken after an XC race in Laurinburg, NC...

And this would be our version of sand out here... a fine white sand from our southern piedmont region.
And this is nothing compared to the dust off the red clay in our western region.







Now you can see how much outerwears pass by the walls of the box, and of course the filter.

Now if a fellow were running an outerwears over a K&N in these conditions, he'd pull the outerwears and see nothing to speak of on the K&N.
I know, I've done it in worse.

So you tell me where all that ends up?

I know where it ends up because I've sprayed my tubes with light mist oil...
And I've sent off used oil samples for analysis as well.

I've got a Honda motor that went from great shape to last legs before a rebuild too.