friggin battery

This is a discussion on friggin battery within the Engine/EFI/Drivetrain forums, part of the KFX450 Performance category; kinda sucks that this kawi dealer are douche bags like this cause they are full of it, multiple people on here run the same hid ...


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Old 03-11-2010, 12:19 AM
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kinda sucks that this kawi dealer are douche bags like this cause they are full of it, multiple people on here run the same hid kit and have no issues, and i have ran hids for 4 hours straight and turned it off and it fired up no problems
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:25 AM
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I'm lucky my servicing Kawi dealer's service department is awesome with me... totally opposite.
Their dealer group's sales management is where they flop...
Hence my servicing dealer...

So I guess they have to be good at service and parts to stay afloat.



Anyways, yes they are either liars, yes-men for Kawasaki, or just not all that bright on the diagnostics.

There are only 2 ways I have found to read no draw...

1- ECU unhooked
2- Trying to measure this draw on the unfused 10A jack on the meter

#2 is a possible mistake on their part. That is meant to use for measuring high current flow. So I don't think it is sensitive enough that way to read small flow. Instead, you still use the 10A DC setting on the meter, but leave the test leads plugged in the meter as normal. This picks up the partial Amp draw mA / mV...

******************************

Anyways, thomasdjames1 has a KFX that has never had a problem, and has established for us that what may be normal "Keep Alive Memory" draw is only 0.07 I think.

On mine, the measurement was much higher... not a battery killing overnight level though... and frankly not a lot less than in the key-on engine-off state...

I never was able to catch it in the act of the battery killing state to see how high that measurement is. Not even by putting a jumper wire in place, pre-connecting the meter and then disconnecting the jumper wire.

I don't know if that is because it is so random of an event... or if doing it the way I was broke the circuit for a split second.


Anyways man, pick up an "autoranging" digital multimeter... Sears = Red Craftsman... Walmart = Red Innova ($25).

Pick up some alligator clip leads too if you want to make it a little easier. Disconnect either battery cable (negative is safer but harder to work with). Set the meter to the 10A DC scale. Put one lead on the disconnected battery terminal. Put the other on the disconnected battery cable... watch for the reading, and keep on checking constant for a bit (few minutes) to see if there is change. Then for kicks turn on the switches. Then turn them off... then disconnect the ECU... 0....
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