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Clicking Noise....wont start

28K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Duster 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I had done a search and couldn't locate anything so here is the question

1). Battery is good, but there is a click noise. I took off the nose cover and felt with my fingers a little electrical box that clicks overtime I press the start button. Checked the fuse on that little box and that is good.

does something need to be reset like a switch or something

any helpful info would be awesome

thanks
 
#3 ·
hey thanks Dust.....the Relay is where it is clicking. I messed with the connection, fuse is good, but its still clicking.

do the relays often go out?

roll over sensor is good, and added some silcone to keep it in place
 
#5 ·
Well.............

Check the cable connections at both the battery and on back of the main relay there by the stem... and also on the starter.... and on the left engine case where the ground cable goes...

Double check inside the connector there at the red plug.

Then take the center cap out of the left cover and use a socket to turn over your engine by hand to see if it is real hard in some spots. Either way you should probably pull off the valve cover and make sure the spring is on the exhaust cam for the decompression mechanism.


In the end, it sounds like a bad connection or an engine that is too hard to turn over due to not having compression release.

Then ta
 
#7 ·
Im having this problem also but starters fine the starter will turn over, but the box with the 30 amp fuse is clicking when i push the starter button and the fuel pump wont turn on at all.
 
#10 ·
Did you ever figure out what the problem was. I have 2 KFX450's so I swapped the solenoids and that did not fix mine. Fuel pump comes on, Ive had a trickle charger on it for a while, turns over pretty easy when I put a socket on the crank, all the terminals I found are clean and tight & fuse is good on relay. Starting to get frustrated.
 
#12 ·
Have you tried running a hot jumper wire directly to your starter to see if it turnes over that way?
 
#15 ·
Mine did the same thing and I had my battery on a tender.It showed 12.8 volts but no output prityboy suggested to see if the battery tender had evaporated the water out of the battery.Well it did I filled the battery back up with water and bam it has been fine ever since.Some people have had this problem if left on the tender and some dont.Hope this helps!:)
 
#17 ·
Connected jumpers to the battery and it started right up! Guess this is a lesson to everyone to always make sure it is not the battery before you go on with diagnosing everything else. The battery is showing a full charge and 12.8 volts but cannot start the bike. My battery is sealed so I cannot add water so guess I am going to have to go buy another. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
#18 ·
Dead/floating cell in battery... :)

Sometimes they will have full charge but no load capacity... low cca.

Other times they will show a bit discharged but jump to full charge rather quickly. But they don't really hold it.


Sealed batteries are the way to go... AGM, Gell, Lithium, etc. The serviceable kind just suck and don't give near as much service life before you have to start fooling with them. And lets be honest here... these are not car/truck batteries we are dealing with. They are tiny... and batteries are not forever anyways. When a sealed battery is gone a regular battery would have already been trouble for a long time.

Lithium batteries such as CV4 are great. 8 cell, 12 cell, etc...

As far as lead acid... Interstate, Yuasa, etc. I prefer Interstate there and recommend a TRX450ER battery instead or a relocated battery box and a stouter battery.
 
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